On Pins and Needles: A Chat With Master Patternmaker and Couturier Nicolas Caito

Being the man penned as "New York's most in-demand patternmaker" by Elle Magazine is no small job. It requires hours of handiwork, a highly developed skill level, knowledge of fabric properties, and an acute attention to detail. I recently had the pleasure of meeting Nicolas Caito, patternmaker to some of the biggest names in the industry. During this meeting at his studio in Tribeca, I was taken aback not only by his love of patternmaking and the way that he excels at such a underappreciated art, but also at the skill level possessed by this man, a man who has worked with some of the biggest names and houses in the business,yet still carries with him the time honored traditions and craftsmanship of some of the oldest and most respected fashion houses in history.

Born in Sicily and raised in Southern France, Caito honed his skills and technical knowledge at the houses of Lanvin, Hermes, and at Rochas under Olivier Theyskens, later moving to New York City after being persuaded by a friend. This exceptional training and collaboration no doubt taught Mr. Caito not only the proper techniques for the dying art of handmade patternmaking, but also instilled in him a sense of appreciation for beauty and the ways to achieve the desired look through many mediums and fabrication methods. “When a designer comes to me, we never say no”, says Caito in response to a question about tough projects. “I believe in saying yes and making it work despite the difficulty, rather than saying no and seeing another patternmaker or designer complete the project that was declined”, a trait that no doubt has served him well over the years, helping to garner him the title of “New York’s most in-demand patternmaker”

Upon surveying his atelier and pieces in progress, it is no wonder that Caito has the reputation that he does. Draped masterpieces hang beside architecturally pieced and fitted jackets, showcasing the raw talent and old world couture craftsmanship techniques of this master at his craft. “Not many people are teaching these techniques anymore” states Caito, a sentiment echoed and appreciated by his intern Adam, a student that will continue this rich heritage of true couture level garment making within an industry that seems to be ever pushing the worth of the machine over that of the individual. “I want people to see what a...how do you say, underappreciated art patternmaking is, and to really know what goes into the creation of a garment” says Caito in closing, and encourages consumers to “know that there is a lot more behind the creation of a garment, that it is more than just an item or dress” a statement that will hopefully resonate within the youth of the industry and spark a fire within a few to carry on this age old and slowly dying craft.--Stephen Fisher--

"Nicolas Caito: Starting Out" Afingo Interviews from Aric Avelino on Vimeo.

Meg Goldman Gets it Right

The world of a stylist can be a tricky one. One has to constantly deal with what the client wants, working within budgets, how the image will turn out on film, and the end result of that intertwined project. Many people would be overwhelmed when confronted with this job, yet Meg Goldman, a stylist living and working right here in New York City does it with finesse, ease and of course, style, working magic for her corporate clients as well as personal ones over the past fifteen years and counting.

Meg Goldman, a graduate of Cornell University, and native New Yorker herself has not only an eye for style, but also more importantly, an eye for style that the “real woman” can use and work with. It is this helpful insight in providing service journalism and answering through the job of stylist, solutions to problems that the real woman has to deal with in her everyday life that Goldman seems to excel at best.

One example of that service is typified in her pieces for Stylelist.com, in which she styles a woman in a piece titled “How To Wear Cropped pants for Every Body Type”, and also the piece “How to Wear Summer Shapewear.” In these article she presents a very real woman and styles her in a very real way, to accentuate the positives and downplay the negatives of her body type, a trick that is extremely helpful and popular with woman interested in achieving a more trim look for any occasion. It is through this attention to what a real woman wants, as well as what she believes that the average woman is looking for that works so well in her favor, and continues to as judging by her ever growing resume. “I believe that a woman should feel beautiful but also comfortable” states meg when asked about her work and how it benefits the average woman, adding that “styling can be a very tough job, but it pays off when you see the look come together in the end and see that the job was done well”, a sentiment that no doubt rings true and continues to further her career within all aspects of this exciting industry.--Stephen Fisher--

Paper Trail: Following Peter Davis

What do Jewish mother figures, Vogue Magazine, and Michael Bastian jackets have in common? They are all things that define the man known as Peter Davis, Paper Magazines reigning resident New Yorker. I decided to ask Peter a few questions, and in doing so came to learn a little about where he came from, how he got there, and where he believes the publishing world is going.

Peter was born here in New York and attended Bennington College to pursue a degree as a painting major, but came to find his true calling in the world of fashion and magazines. During High School, Davis took an internship at Paper magazine and was given his first column by Kim Hastreiter, Publisher, crediting her with his early success within the industry. “She gave me my first column when I was barely out of college and always told me I was a good writer. Without her I would not be writing today” he states. “She also taught me how to edit and what makes a good cover and a good fashion story. As a very WASPy boy, Kim is the Jewish mom I always wished I had” says Davis nostalgically, recalling the way Hastreiter became more than a boss to him, and helped to really guide him as a mentor and friend within the magazine industry.

One true passion of Davis' is that of the fashion industry, and it was this passion that helped to continue to further his career early on when coupled with his magazine experience. Davis was asked to cover the womenswear shows in Paris during his early years at the magazine, and fell in love with it from that point after a chance encounter that happened “by accident.” “Paper brought me to Paris to cover the behind the scenes of the women's shows. I was 21 and loved every second of it. And from that trip on, never stopped writing. An assignment from Vogue came 3 months later, followed by Vanity Fair. The editors had read my Paper stuff” says Davis, a move that acted to meld the two interests into one, and really allowed him to express both areas of interest while growing and evolving.

Now that Davis has solidified his career within the magazine industry, and continues to be at the forefront of the fashion world through his place at Paper Magazine as Editor at Large, he has his finger on the pulse of both the style scene as well as the ever changing publishing scene, both from the traditional publishing side as well as that of a blogger. When asked where he thought the industry was going in the near future, he stated “More and more the publishing industry, like the music and movie industry is going digital”, a viewpoint shared by many in the industry. “The iPad will make this web based magazine craze happen even faster. Magazines have to make every issue a collectible to stay alive,” a statement that seems to echo in this quickly changing industry where bloggers are replacing traditional journalists and contributors.

One thing that seems to really resonate from Davis is a deep understanding of how the industry works, and an appreciation for fashion and designers at a very deep level, stating Michael Bastian and the recently retired Martin Margiela as two of his favorites. “Bastian is the closest to bespoke that is off the rack - his jackets fit perfectly and the details, especially the wild linings, are perfect” says Davis, and credits Margiela’s pieces as being outrageous and worthy of a spot “in a museum”, a comment that demonstrates his appreciation not only for clothing but also for the entire fashion and cultural lifestyle that seems to resonate from this man and his own timeless and ever evolving brand of chic that is always in style no matter the season or trend, a chic that has worked to evolve his career and cannot help but do so in the years to come.--Stephen Fisher--

Angela Gilltrap Opens Up to Me About Magazines, Mentors and the Future of Media

When one thinks of magazine editors and their job within the media, images of hectic schedules, deadlines, and chaotic travel regimens come to mind. While these images are very true and real scenarios within the role of a magazine editor today, one would multiply that schedule by about ten, and in doing so would arrive at somewhat of an image of the workload of Zink Magazine’s contributing editor, Angela Gilltrap. Ms. Gilltrap has been in the limelight in some way, shape or form even since childhood when she took a junior role at a news station in her native Australia, and since then has managed to work her way into almost every facet of the entertainment industry. At twelve, Ms. Gilltrap was a guest at the Lido in Paris, refined her Japanese in Tokyo at fifteen, and by sixteen was juggling school commitments and working to make a living as a jazz singer, appearing in her first musical as well as dancing up to fifteen hours a week. Since then Ms. Gilltrap has gone on to gain recognition as a television presenter, author, social commentator and performer, excelling at each independently. Even with all of this under her belt, Ms. Gilltrap still seems to take the industry on with a passion and drive that shows and has worked in her favor for years, no doubt a trend that will continue in the future.

When one talks to Ms. Gilltrap, the first thing that you pick up on is her drive, experience, and knowledge of the industry, experience that encompasses a wide range of areas. As was stated before, Ms. Gilltrap started early on in the media and branched out in various directions along the way, working her way through news channels, books, music, theatre, dance, and ultimately the magazine industry, a jump that she states was an easy transition due to her background experience and knowledge of the industry up until then. “I was on tour, so I had my finances under control but had an inch to know more. So I started freelancing,” says Gilltrap, a move that seemed to work well. “ I figured the best way to talk to those I admired was to interview them. I chose those people, pitched the stories to various editors, and ended up with assignments. Having come from an entertainment background, you get used to trying again and again until something finally gives.”

Another area that stands out about Gilltrap is the way that she has cleverly and smartly positioned her endeavors to succeed using business savvy and ingenuity. Talking to her about the way that she works, she seems to always be thinking of the big picture and what more can be done to help the project, story or item work rather than trying to limit herself to expected or limited ways of doing so. Even within the fickle and changing industry of publishing, Ms Gilltrap has a positive and creative outlook when asked about her thoughts on where magazines and print is headed in the near and changing future. “Print is not dead no matter what people say” she states, “I think all publishers, media and marketers have to think outside the box to give brands value for money when it comes to funding publications. Whether online, in print or on the web, the ability to create something has never been easier, being able to sustain that momentum however, is where the difficulty lies.”, further adds Gilltrap, showing her positive outlook on an industry that is in a state of flux, yet as she states has a tremendous opportunity for creation and industry when handled smartly.

These days, as in her younger years, Gilltrap still has a hectic global travel schedule and busy lifestyle, yet still manages to find time to write great columns for Zink magazine, crediting one of her fellow colleagues, Casey Gillespie, as one of her mentors and people that she continues to look up to in the industry. “In terms of publishing I think it's the people you work with in very stressful situations that really influence the way you work, so for me it's Editor-In-Chief Casey Gillespie of Zink Magazine. She taught me to make decisive decisions, put the quotation marks in the right place, and keep on truckin even when the going gets tough”, a sentiment that seems to be working incredibly well for her so far, and will no doubt continue to do so in the years to follow, wherever her busy life and thriving career decide to take her.--Stephen Fisher--

Be sure to check out Angela's book, "Sunshine on Sugar Hill"(ABC/Harper Collins) available online.

Weekly Trend Report: Heavy Metals

Heavy Metals

I'll say it up front, I love the look of black with some great gold or silver bold studding on it. I think it's just one of those things that if done right, can look effortlessly chic and spectacular, but if done wrong can look like a Bedazzled mess. I pulled together a few pieces that I really liked and I think could be a great addition to any wardrobe, and the best thing is that for the most part, these pieces can go with anything, and can be dressed up or down depending on your mood and taste.

Balmain has been doing some great things with studding and embellishments lately, as evidenced by this spectacular dress. The dress is studded with both metal studs and crystal, giving it that edginess yet a sense of refined chic as well, allowing it to feel equally at home at both a downtown party or walking 5th Avenue.

The classic. The Hermes Collier de Chien is a perennial classic and has been for years. This bracelet looks amazing when paired with a sleek black dress, or my favorite, a simple pair of dark jeans and a tee. I believe that this is the most versatile item that I have pulled up and is definately a great style investment for any woman (or even the brave man.)

These heels by Emilio Pucci are great due to the fact that they are not overtly studded and ostentatious, yet possess the right amount of detail and design to make you really be able to wear them as an understated statement piece. I think that these would look amazing with a pair of skinny black ankle cropped pant to visually elongate the legs of the wearer and allow her to appear taller and draw attention to the ankle detailwork.

I absolutely love these pants by Ellery due to the fact that they are just a normal pair of black pants, but possess just the right amount of studding to keep them interesting and sexy. They almost resemble studded legwarmers from afar, and I think would be a very easy and versatile pair to wear for many occasions.

This satchel by Tori Burch is a great piece because of the fact that it is so casual yet does not feel it. The studs and sheen of both the metal and leather coupled with the shape of the bag suggest a refined style, yet it can truly be carried in any situation and I think is a great casual bag and a great alternative to all of the frumpy bags I have been seeing on the streets lately.

Ok, so this Balenciaga piece isn't exactly studded, but I had to include it for two reasons, one being that I love the detail of the embossing to make it resemble studding, and the second being that is a mens piece. I love studded pieces for men, but it is extremely hard to find a piece that either does not look like a goth kid from Iowa would be wearing it, or looking like it would be better suited for Folsom Street Fair than Fifth Avenue. I believe that this piece does a great job of suggesting the studding, yet not actually possessing the studs, a trick that in itself is great while also being a chic alternative to your everyday billfold.

--Stephen Fisher--

Kara Janx: Easy Style

Throughout the run of “Project Runway” designers have come and gone, yet one seems to stay fresh and new in the mind of consumers as well as viewers, that one person being designer Kara Janx. Janx manages to mix her sense of tailored design with girly and Asian- inspired casualwear into a lucrative and fashionable product line that has stayed a perennial favorite with consumers as well as a staple to celebrities for years.

Janx was born in Johannesburg, South Africa, and attended school for architecture before deciding that fashion was her lifelong passion and beginning a series of classes that would lead her in that direction. She honed in her design eye and construction techniques in New York City, and eventually landed a spot on the hit show “Project Runway”, a move that was life changing for the designer and continues to affect her career to this day. “People do not know the power of the media, or how it can influence your career” says Janx during my interview with her when asked if she still sells dressed due to the popularity of the show. “I find it amazing that media has the ability to influence someone to go online and buy clothing after seeing a rerun of the show even this many years later”, says Janx as well, no doubt a perk to this quasi-reality boom in television that is going on today, which can either destroy or jumpstart your career depending on how the public perceives you.

Now that the show is over and the hype has died from her stint on the series, the designer still continues to work here in New York City, producing collections and designing her signature kimono dresses that put her on the map in the first place. The current collection is for sale both online as well as in stores, capitalizing on that wave that she stated was helping to drive her business through media outlets, and continuing the dream of a designer trying to make it in the city and express her vision through clothing.

Here is a look at Kara's signature kimono dress, as well as a more recent offering from her line

-- Stephen Fisher--

Ann Sofie Back: Celebrating the unexpected

Ann Sophie Back is one of Sweden's premiere avant garde designers, and judging by the way she constantly reinvents her look while staying true to herself and easthetic loves, why should't she be? Her designs range from that of body hugging sleek jersey dresses, to structured and angular suits, all the way to deconstructed menswear-inspired pieces and tailored trousers for women. This vast expanse of looks and inspirations does not stop at the clothing however. Ms. Back represents visuals amazingly on the runway as well as the design studio, whether it be a minimalist background of white and grey with naturally beautiful models, or a stark runway with gothic and vampiric women stalking the catwalk, Ms. Back always has something to offer, and always does it creatively and beautifully.

In the image to the left, we see that she artfully combines angles and fabric sheens to create a very tailored yet edgy look that possesses a very feminine and powerful quality to it despite the heavy and rough draping of the skirt and the accentuated shoulders of the shirt. This look I believe is wonderful due to the fact that so many designers these days are going towards a softer look for women that is very feminine, yet lacks the architecture and excitement th

at can be gained through more angular structure of clothing, ultimately empowering the female figure and giving it a brash and raw sexiness without compromising the femininity in any way.

In contrast to the very tailored, refined, and businesslike feel to the look above, this dress to the right as well as the presentation demands the viewers attention, not only for the beautiful clothing, but for the model as well. This dress is from the London Autumn/ Winter 09/10 show, and was presented on models that had a very vampiric quality to them, adding to the edginess and unsettling fit and nature of the collection. This dress is beautiful, with it's layered levels of lace and asymmetrical ruffles, yet also is extremely sexy with the body hugging lines and sheer nature of the fabric showing once again how interesting this designers clothing is, and pegging her as one to follow for the fans of the out-of-the-ordinary as well as the extraordinary.

Here are a few other looks by Ann Sofie Back as well, showcasing her scope and range as a designer.

Lindsay Lohan as photographed by Hedi Slimane

I came across this series of images while doing a unsussessful search for fashionable yet edgy street fashion, however I am glad that I found these due to the fact that it made me appreciate Hedi Slimane's work not only for the way that he photographs, but also in the way that he manages to capture every essence of the subjects character and soul through the lens of his camera.

I have always been a fan of great edgy photographers such as Steven Klein that manage to push the envelope and deliver an image that assaults the senses in a daring sort of way, yet have also been an equal fan of classic softer black and white photographers such as the great Bruce Weber and Demarchalier. I believe that Hedi combines both the crispy edge of a razor sharp black and white image with that of a sense of raw energy and striking visual honesty that someone like Weber can not replicate in my opinion.

In this set of images Lindsay is not set up and posed for a traditional and pretty sitting, but instead is photographed with a raw sense of energy and fatigue, cigarette in hand, body coquettishly contorted, hair tousled, and exposing a personality and attitude that is enticingly raw around the edges, bringing to mind both the minimal and refined lines of Slimane's work at Dior Homme, and the raw emotion that can be conveyed to the viewer through an image that is left in a raw and true state.

My first post

This is my first real shot at blogging, I'll just say that before I go any further. I decided to put my love of fashion, art, design, imagery, and costume onto the web as a way to collect the things that I like and present them in a more organized format. I am very new to this industry as a student, yet as I progress through, each step seems to take me in another direction, yet all within the same field and areas. I started with a love of fashion and design elements and from there began classes, at which time I decided I wanted to take on the New York scene and experience MBFW which I did. That foray into the industry inspired me to broaden my limits and from there I developed an interest in events and the production side of the industry as well as the magazine industry due to the coverage and transmission and dissemination of information that happens at those events at such a rapid rate. I secured an internship within the magazine industry at a publication, and from there I started really becoming aware of imagery and how it can convey, enhance, influence, and emotionally charge clothes, and at this point I am being slowly drawn towards imagery, photography, and dynamic photographers as an interest that continues to grow and evolve while my interests in general continue to do the same.

At this point I hope t take all of those interests which seem to be flooding in and mixing in front of me, and present the ones that catch my eye or influence me in some way so that others can gain a insight into what I am thinking, seeing, feeling, or doing while also expressing my own thoughts and interests for myself as well.

SLLV,

SJF